Hampi - History Etched in Stones

December 2018 is the time I visited Hampi, a small village in Karnataka, India. January 2019 is when New York Times ranked this place #2 in ‘52 Places to go in 2019’. I was ecstatic on reading the article and why not? A small place in India getting recognition at this level means more awareness and tourism boost for India. Hampi has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for the historical importance and number of ruins that covers it. This place has seen so much history spanning four dynasties of India and a mythological chapter in Ramayana. The moment you enter Hampi, the very first thing I noticed is the hills. In my life so far, the hills i have seen, have been solid grounds, however the hills at Hampi are made out of boulders, loose boulders stacked over one another. I would imagine at times, if someone moves one boulder from the base, the entire hill will come crumbling down. But obviously this is not as easy as it sounds. These boulders have withstood harsh weather conditions and so much wear and tear and yet they are going strong keeping the hills intact.

Some of the ruins of Hampi:

Sri Virupaksha Temple - Perfect reflection

One of the many stone carvings on temple walls

Where and What to eat at Hampi?

When it comes to food, I have never eaten such cheap/inexpensive food anywhere in India. Honestly, although there are number of food joints on the Hippie Island side of Hampi, there are very few who actually serve good food. Also, if you are okay with street food, the restaurants should be completely ditched for it. Hot, steaming idlis, variety of crispy dosas, fresh appes (or GuLiyappa in Kanada-local language of Hampi) and yummy Maggi (indian instant noodles). I completely enjoyed these local dishes, because A: they were freshly cooked right in front of me and B: ‘When in Rome, do as the Romans do’. I am a person who does not hesitate in trying local cuisine. So when in Hampi, I would highly recommend eating what locals eat.

We also ate at some of the following restaurants:

Evolve Back Resorts (formerly known as Orange County)

Luxury eating at its best. I am a huge fan of Evolve Back resorts and have already been to their Coorg and Kabini properties. So while in Hampi, naturally I wanted to check out their property here as well. Although I would not recommend staying here considering it’s proximity to the ruins and the river, I will definitely recommend having at least a meal here. Make sure you book a table in advance. The food and the service will not disappoint you.

Laughing Buddha

This was one place we discovered by accident after talking to some regulars and locals. And after some exhausting ‘ruinful’ day, the food at this place just relaxed my body and mind. I felt content and happy. Do not miss the mushroom spicy gravy with Naan (Indian flat bread). Yummiest mushroom I have ever had. And the views are an added advantage.

Nargila Restaurant

Although the set-up and the service was good, the food was sub-standard. Also, this place overlooks a rice field and thus you can expect too many insects and mosquitoes to trouble you in the evenings. One thing I definitely enjoyed was a live performance by an artist playing Djembe. He was so good that I did not want him to stop playing. This place can be given a miss for food considering there are other options available.

Top Secret Riverview Restaurant

Although we enjoyed the coffees and Pizzas here, we were sad as this was the last restaurant and we were leaving on the same day we visited here. Nonetheless, good food.

Mango Tree

This restaurant is on the ruins side of Hampi and serves some amazing lunch and dinner.

Doing some Offbeat things in Hampi:

Cliff Jumping and river swimming
Riding around paddy fields
Find your own sunset viewing point
Get high on life
Go round and round on Coracle boats
Hike along the Tungabhadra river

How to reach Hampi?

By Air: The nearest airports to Hampi are Belgaum airport or Bengaluru airport. However, both these places are more than 250 KM away. So the remaining journey can be covered by overnight buses from either of these places or by hiring a car.

By Road: I had traveled to Hampi from Goa. There are overnight sleeper buses that can be booked for the travel. It takes approximately 7 to 8 hours to cover the distance. People traveling from Pune/Mumbai can also book overnight sleeper buses to travel by road. You will be pleasantly surprised at the condition of the buses. They are clean, comfortable and because they are sleeper, you can reach the destination fresh on the next day considering you might have slept well.

By Rail: Hospete (Hampi) is well connected to major cities even by trains. Make sure the train you book stops at Hospete. In India, advance railway bookings are a must. So make sure you have booked your train well in advance (at least 2 months in advance).

Internal travel within Hampi

Hampi is divided into two sides by the river Tungabhadra. One side is where all the ruins are and the other side is called the Hippie island (for obvious reasons). You can stay on either side. It does not matter. The river can be crossed using ferries operated by the locals. They charge INR 50 per person for a single crossing. However, this charge is applicable only until the sun sets. Post evening, the locals add a surcharge which can vary from INR 100 to INR 500 depending on the time of the day and on their mood. You can also hire a two wheeler on either side of the river, however it cannot be used to cross the river, as the closest bridge over the river is approximately 15 KM away from the ferry point. This adds upto 30 minutes in your travel time. Thus people prefer using the boats and ferries (even the locals). We had hired a two wheeler to explore the Hippie side of Hampi.

Where to stay in Hampi?

There are only a few good 3 to 4-star hotels in Hampi. But then again, who comes to Hampi to enjoy luxury? I think the best way to enjoy the place is by booking a homestay or a guesthouse. Some of the guesthouses are as cheap as INR 900 (approximately $13) per night. I had stayed at the Hangout in Hampi Leo Wodden Resort. This place was approximately 10 KM from the ferry point, but the ride is worth every distance. Also, this property is on the banks of the river and hence the views from the rooms are equally scenic and beautiful. Sharing some of the property pics:

However, I found following guest houses to be good as well:

Shanthi Guest House
Mowgli Guest House
Ravi Teja Guest House
Gopi Guest House and Roof Restaurant

Visit this amazing place and be amazed for life. It will bring different experiences in your life than your regular travels. The place is safe and perfect for women solo travel as well. The people are so friendly here that you will feel at home at once. They are inquisitive and informative at the same time. The kids and youngsters have picked up US and UK English accent as they have learnt the language from the tourists. Thus, communication is not a problem at all. I will definitely come back here to relax and be at peace.

If you have visited this place already, let me know about your experiences in the comment section below.